LFW Review: The Fashion Awakening
The creative rebirth of a plagued fashion empire
(@erdem, @mollygoddard, @burberry / Instagram)
Angelic whites, abrasive pinks and navy blues were common shades within the Spring/Summer collections at London Fashion Week. To sum up a week of digital art with just a few colors would be wrong, though. This London Fashion week was shaped by elements found in nature, sheroes within the pandemic and the racial injustice that has poisoned the globe. As we depart from LFW, and the automatic doors begin to close, I want to figuratively slide my foot in and share some of my honorable mentions before you reach your next destination.
Into the Wild
Burberry put on a full production, per usual, only this time models used the grooved paths of the forest as their catwalk. To keep it interesting, some models were dressed in all white and posed as props while others were accompanied by what resembled special agents from men in black. Much of the clothing takes inspiration from sea elements and aquatic life. Creative Director Riccardo Tisci called the immersive experience “a love affair between a mermaid and a shark.” The show was carbon neutral and ultimately focused on the beauty of nature.
In the Erdem collection, models wore floor-length gowns adorned with delicate daisies and sunflowers — the kind you would wear to a tea party. Others wore white sashes around their necks and bright-colored ribbons falling from the shoulders and the waist of their gowns.
(London Fashion Week)
Neon House Party
In a Dr. Seuss fantasy, I would wear Mark Fast. Titled “Creative Journey,” Mark Fast takes inspiration from ’80s punk and fearlessly incorporates highlighter pinks and greens into every look. Female models can be seen holding handbags dipped in acid greens and denim jackets printed with graffiti. Old-fashioned kitten heels are transformed into sock stilettos and pencil skirts become candy cane striped, two-piece sets.
(London Fashion Week)
Molly Goddard shares a similar love for whimsical designs and vivid colors. Many of her models wore tulle skirts reminiscent of multi-colored loofahs. In response to the dark and depressing months of quarantine, Molly used her love for splashes of color and whimsical ruffles to bring smiles to everyone's face.
(London Fashion Week)
Fashion Activism and Appreciation
Here to Stay a film created by Osman Yousefzada, an Afghan-Pakistani immigrant, gives a voice to marginalized communities through fashion. The film discusses “part-time adornments of privilege,” or cultural appropriation within the fashion industry. It also details the theft and enslavement of people through colonialism, exclaiming that “I’m more than the sum of my ancestors’ labor” and “I’m here to stay.” The film reminds viewers to recognize the beauty, as well as the unwavering strength, of his heritage and other marginalized communities.
In Halpern’s SS 21 collection, he casts train drivers, obstetricians and nurses as models for his collection, in an effort to celebrate their heroic work throughout the pandemic. The collection was composed of feathered pieces and intricate designs in pastel pinks.
David Koma made the dreaded Ibiley school polo sexy. Set on the backdrop of a tennis court, models strutted the squares of the court in flouncy ruffled skirts, almost mimicking the binding skorts worn by players. Others wore chainmail basketball jerseys and hoop earrings exaggerated in the shape of tennis rackets.
After sitting in the virtual theater of fashion films and admiring each piece from the digital runway, I’ve realized I am witnessing the evolution of fashion and the way it is presented. More importantly, the environmental conscious knitwear from Mark Fast and the chants for racial equity from Osman’s collection proves that fashion is not only a place for creative expression but a platform for global change.
Kalia Richardson is an Editorial Assistant for Rowdy Magazine and a junior journalism major at the University of Florida. Kalia enjoys post-workout dance parties, checking on her virtual Sim family and daily phone calls with her mommy. It’s common to find her writing stories anywhere but a traditional desk and spending hours on end reading fashion news at 3 a.m. You can reach her firstname.lastname@example.org